Clematis Vine and Other Viny Plants

Vines are a necessity in most gardens, whether it be for the use of covering unsightly objects like air conditioners or the gas meters, maybe you desire a quaint, intimate feel and need to create some ‘green walls’, vines are great as an introduction into a new area as an archway or entry point to state ‘I have arrived.’  The vertical aspects of a garden should never be overlooked they help guide the onlookers eye to notice every aspect of a garden.  Jan Erland, a local gardener, says of one of her favorite vines, “Clematis is always a show stopper!  I have grown them in the past to cover the unsightly “legs” to an upper level deck.  The purple flowers reached up to the deck itself to bloom and say ‘hello.’  I do not know the variety, but the flowers were so reassuring and lovely, a longtime favorite.”  But vines need not be only a vertical accessory; in fact many gardeners are anti-grass and pro ground cover, with the use of vines.  This frees up outdoor time for more enjoyment and no mowing is required of viny ground covers. 

One of the more popular vines in our area is the Clematis (KLEM-a-tis), it is a member of the Ranunculaceae (buttercup) family and its name is derived from the Greeks meaning, “Vine”.  The enormous allure of the clematis vine is obvious when you see those dinner-plate sized blooms glowing in the sun.  With their huge variety of flower shapes from quite petite to absolutely massive, the rainbow of colors be it a solid bloom or striped, their vast times of blooming from spring to fall and the variety of foliage the clematis is a tough vine to pass up in a Kansas garden.  It is a hardy plant, although it can be difficult to establish, but once it does take root a clematis vine can survive 25 years or more in the right conditions. 

The perfect conditions for most clematis are in full sun, these beauties like to bask for at least 6 hours in direct sun on a golden day.  They prefer good air movement around the plant and the roots like to stay cool. Mulching is an excellent way to keep the feet of the clematis cool, planting them under a bed of vinca or another ground cover can also have the same results.  Most clematis need something to twine up, however they can make a gorgeous ground cover as well, but if you are opting for the traditional direction for the clematis to grow than it may need a little assistance heading for the sky.  While trellises, arbors, branches and the like are aching for a showy flora like clematis to drape all over them, the clematis climbs by twisting petioles which generally require a thin fish line or string to grasp onto.  You may try threading a thin material into an existing arbor, trellis or lattice work to ensure the upward mobility of clematis.

The tricky hiccup to growing clematis is which type you have and when exactly it is supposed to be pruned.  It is not a necessity to prune your clematis but it will improve the number of blooms and their locations and that is really why we grow clematis- the blooms!  The plant is categorized in three groups, A,B and C.

Group A – Early Flowering Clematis

This group begins blooming in April and May.  It is best to prune Group A soon after the blooms have faded but no later than the end of July.  This will allow new buds to form for the next season.  You will want to remove shoots that have bloomed but stay clear of pruning the woody trunks.  Generally speaking…clematis that does not die back in the winter and blooms early in the spring is probably a Group A clematis.  They usually only need enough trimming to keep the plants looking fresh and under control.

Group B – Large-Flowering Hybrids

These big guys usually grow 10 to 12 feet in height and begin blooming in mid-June on short stems from the growth of the previous season.  If you have clematis with double blooms and/or is a re-bloomer later in the season it is most likely a Group B clematis.  They tend to perform very well on fences, trellises and covering items.  It is best to prune these types now, in March or very early April, by removing dead and weak stems completely and trimming remaining stems to the topmost part of the large, green buds.

Group C – Late-Flowering Clematis

This grouping blooms on the past two or three feet of current growth.  This group tends to be the easiest to prune since no old wood is maintained and should be trimmed in March or early April by simply cutting each stem to about 2 feet tall.  The best place to cut is directly above two healthy buds for all of your pruning work in any of the groups.

Are you still unsure as to what group your clematis falls under, watch it bloom and take note of when it is in full color, second look if it blooms on woody stems from last year or green flexible new wood of this year- once you have answered these questions you can usually figure out what group the clematis is in.

For Color: 

• Villa de Lyon
• Perle d’Azure

For Uniqueness:

• Belle of Woking (double bloom)
• Purpurea Plena Elegans (double bloom)

For Fragrance:

• Betty Corning

Non-Climbers:

• Integrifolia
• C. heracleifolia

Sources:

KSU Extension office

Ohio State Extension Office

Garden Gate magazine

Jan Erland

Scott Wisdom