I know, you are scratching you heads wondering why in the world I’m writing about growing grapes in Kansas.We grow wheat here, some soy and corn; we have some sprawling fruit orchards, but vineyards, please!Grape growing is left to the lush lands of California and a handful of other coastal states; they are the grape growers, right?If this is what you are thinking, you would be utterly and totally misguided.
In fact before Prohibition Kansas was one of the leading states in growing grapes, our history is long and fruitful when it comes to these small, round, savory morsels.The Kansas Department of Commerce created a timeline that shows in 1901, despite Prohibition, over 5,000 acres of Kansas vineyards were still producing grapes but the state made this a nearly impossible en devour by creating a state-imposed Prohibition and by 1933 even though Prohibition had ended, Kansas still retained extremely strict laws prohibiting the sale of alcohol and vineyards fell into neglect and ruin.Not until the late 1980’s when a farm winery law was passed did wineries and grape growing begin to make a comeback in the state.Today, there are more than 90 vineyards in the state with grapes growing on approximately 200 acres.Kansas has 14 wineries, half of which opened in the last two years.Those wineries are producing more than 50,000 gallons of wine each year, totaling sales of more than $1 million according to the Kansas Grape Growers & Winemakers Association.
This is the time when grapes in Kansas are plump, juicy and waiting to be harvested.It is safe to say that from Labor Day and for the next 6 consecutive weeks after, grape growers throughout our fertile Kansas fields will be hard at work plucking the fruits of their labor off the vines.I thought this would be an excellent time to learn more about what it takes to grow grapes in Kansas, so I contacted a first year novice grape growing family and a more established vineyard whose vines are mature enough to have the option of being a winery to discuss what it takes to transform your land from the typical farm belt scene to that of feeling as if you have been teleported to the French or Californian countryside’s.
Kugler’s Vineyard
Kay and Tony Kugler were political refugees from the CzechRepublic when they first came to the United States; they came seeking to find a life of harmony and opportunity for their young family.One opportunity that was reminiscent of their homeland was grape growing, as Tony’s family has vineyards in the Moravia region, they knew a bit but had to start learning the idiosyncrasies of grape growing and winemaking together from scratch.The Kugler’s began preparing their vineyard in 1995 with an old 1947 John Deere tractor Tony sowed all the rows and they planted their first rooted sticks in 1996.They had no planned irrigation system at the time and had ordered a group of hardy vines from a catalog.“We have 10 acres and we knew we wanted something there, we thought a vineyard might be nice.”Tony says, “Plus we like to be outside, some people like to jog, this is our form of exercise.”And Kugler’s Vineyard was born.The vineyard boasts 5 different grape varieties; Cynthiana (or Norton), Vidal Blanc, Seyval Blanc, Concord and Niagara.The vineyard won a bronze metal for their 2004 Cynthiana at the National Norton Wine Competition in St. Louis but the real rewards to growing grapes are less tangible.Kay says, “Walking through the vineyard early in the morning is absolutely beautiful.We love our wines, we are happy other people love our wines and we are meeting some very interesting people in the process.The line between customers and friends is very blurry now.Many of our customers became friends; many of our friends became customers.”As we stroll down a row I’m invited to pluck a few white grapes off the vine, they literally burst in my mouth, a fantastic, flavorful mid morning snack.
I brought my husband along to taste the wines, we entered the cellar and adorned on the wall are many ribbons and plaques of honor from state fairs to grape growing associations, the cellar is also brimming with large stainless steel vats, grape crushers, corking equipment, bottling equipment, oak barrels and cases of wines.After tasting all the wines at the ripe old time of 10 am my husband declares that he is grilling steaks tonight with some Cynthiana, Kay replies, “Oh that is a wonderful combination, robust and savory.”This is fun.I have to giggle as a couple of eggs over easy are the only thing lining his stomach at the moment.
Tony explains how last year was a banner crop for grapes, they produced almost 6 tons which squeezed about 650 gallons of juice equating to 5 bottles per gallon.But, it is not all wine and roses, growing grapes can be brutal and any hobby or profession dependant on Mother Nature’s whims is always a crap shoot. Tony says, “My advice for first time growers would be to realize the hard work involved, think twice and you have to love it.You surely don’t get rich from it.Travel to other vineyards, talk to people, taste their wines, read all the books and research.”
First Timers
Rick and Debby Hird just finished their grape sowing in April of this year.Rick states, “We underestimated the amount of pure physical labor involved in planting and installing a vineyard.Our vineyard is tiny by comparison at about 800 vines on approximately one acre.But the work involved in planting vines, installing trellises and irrigation systems, pruning and spraying has been a challenge particularly for only two people.”
The couple knows that they have a few years before deciding whether they want to be vintners and during that time they are determined to learn as much as possible.By visiting as many wineries as they can, sampling wines, and talking to other Kansas grape growers.“Our neighbors planted a vineyard last year and we have been watching their progress.”Says Rick, “For many years we contemplated the right crop for our land and grapes looked like a good choice, plus rows of grapes are just so beautiful.”
The Hird’s purchased cuttings from a vineyard in upstate New York, sowed them and then patiently waited, Rick remarks, “Seeing the plants’ actually growing was certainly satisfying, they look like sticks with roots when we got them.So, when they started leafing out, there was a collective sigh of relief.”The rewards they garner from their sweat and labor is knowing that what they have planted could be both a thriving business venture and a personal aesthetic pleasure for the use of their land for years to come.Rick’s advice for anyone considering growing grapes, “Spend a year or more planning and gathering information before jumping in.Know your soil and know what your neighbors are spraying on their crops, then enjoy all the helpful and friendly people in the business.”
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